Graaff-Reinet Travel Guide - South Africa's Oldest Town

Graaff-Reinet is the fourth oldest town in South Africa, established by the Dutch East India Company in 1786 as an administrative outpost in the Karoo interior. That founding date makes it the oldest town beyond the coastal strip, and its relative isolation - surrounded on three sides by the loop of the Sundays River and hemmed in by Camdeboo National Park - has preserved a built environment that most South African towns long since demolished. Over 200 buildings in Graaff-Reinet are national monuments, making the town effectively an open-air museum of Cape Dutch and Victorian architecture.

The landscape is stark and compelling. The Karoo here is semi-arid scrubland and red-brown mountains, with dust-bleached stone walls, enormous boulders, and a sky that seems wider than almost anywhere else in the country. The combination of heritage architecture and raw landscape is unusual in South Africa, and worth the detour.

Valley of Desolation

The Valley of Desolation is the single most-visited sight near Graaff-Reinet and justifies the trip on its own. Located within Camdeboo National Park, 14 km north of town, the viewpoint sits above a series of dolerite columns - some over 120 metres tall - that rise vertically from the valley floor. The columns were formed when molten rock intruded into existing sedimentary layers and cooled; over millions of years, softer rock eroded away to leave the towers standing.

The view takes in the entire Graaff-Reinet basin, the Sundays River valley, and the Karoo flatlands extending beyond to the horizon. Early morning and late afternoon produce the most dramatic light. The rock changes from brown-grey to deep amber in the afternoon sun.

Access: Drive north from Graaff-Reinet on the Murraysburg Road and follow signs for Camdeboo National Park. A SANParks conservation fee applies - approximately R248 per adult per day for international visitors (2025/26 rates). The park is open daily from 07:00 to 18:00. From the entrance, it is a further 14 km to the Valley of Desolation viewpoint on a good gravel road. The walk from the lower car park to the main viewing platforms takes about 20 minutes each way on a marked trail.

Hiking: Two trails run from the viewpoint. The Driekloofpad (3.5 km, moderate) continues along the rim with views across multiple valleys. The Valley of Desolation circular trail (3.5 km) traverses the rock formations directly. Both trails start from the main viewpoint parking area.

Camdeboo National Park

The park encircles Graaff-Reinet in a 19,000-hectare belt of Karoo terrain and includes the Nqweba Dam, the largest body of water in the region. The game-viewing is genuinely worthwhile - the park holds over 220 bird species, springbok, black rhino, eland, kudu, and Cape mountain zebra. The Nqweba Dam area produces good waterbird and wader sightings, and the dam shore at dawn is remarkably quiet.

Game drives: Self-drive routes are well-marked within the park. Most visitors spend two to three hours on the full circuit, which includes the dam, the valley floor, and the Valley of Desolation viewpoint. There is no accommodation inside the park - all lodging is in town.

Night sky: The Karoo darkness is exceptional. Graaff-Reinet sits far from any urban light source, and the park is one of the clearest stargazing locations in South Africa. A cloudless winter night shows the Milky Way at full brightness.

The Town: Architecture and Heritage

The town centre is compact and walkable. The main landmark is the Drostdy Hotel, a converted magistrate’s court (drostdy) originally built in 1806 and now operating as a 4-star hotel. The building’s Cape Dutch gable is one of the finest in the Karoo. The hotel grounds include the converted Stretch’s Court cottages - a cluster of 19th-century labourer’s cottages repurposed into hotel rooms - and a restaurant and pool.

Reinet House (30 Murray Street) is a Cape Dutch parsonage museum dating to 1812, housing a notable collection of period furniture and a Victorian-era grape vine that is listed as a national monument in its own right. Entry approximately R50 per adult.

The Old Library Museum (corner of Church and Somerset Streets) covers the natural and cultural history of the Karoo and Graaff-Reinet, including fossils from the Karoo Basin. The museum building is itself a notable example of Cape Gothic architecture. Entry approximately R40 per adult.

Hester Rupert Art Museum (Church Street) is housed in a Dutch Reformed Mission Church built in 1821 and displays South African art from the mid-20th century. Entry approximately R30.

A self-guided walking tour pamphlet covering the main heritage sites is available from the Graaff-Reinet Tourism Bureau at the corner of Church and Murray Streets.

Where to Stay

Drostdy Hotel by NEWMARK - The obvious choice for history and atmosphere. The hotel occupies a full block of the town centre, with rooms in the main 1806 drostdy building and in the Stretch’s Court cottages. Rated 8.9 on Booking.com across 3,000+ reviews. Doubles from approximately R1,560/night (room only; as of 2026). Outdoor pool, restaurant, and gardens. Book Drostdy Hotel on Booking.com.

Victorian Square Guesthouse - Centrally located self-catering option with a 4.9 rating. Well-equipped apartments from approximately R780/night. Good choice for self-catering visitors or those arriving on a tight budget.

Queen Manor Boutique Guest House - Elegant Victorian-era guesthouse near the town centre. Air-conditioned rooms, breakfast included. Doubles from approximately R980/night (as of 2026).

Samara Karoo Reserve - For a luxury option with game viewing, Samara is a private 68,000-hectare reserve 50 km north of Graaff-Reinet offering cheetah conservation activities, guided game drives, and lodge accommodation from approximately R7,000/night per person sharing (all-inclusive). One of South Africa’s most acclaimed private reserves.

Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve - Smaller luxury reserve closer to town, with tented bush camps and a manor house. Game drives and guided walks included. From approximately R4,500/night per person sharing.

Browse all Graaff-Reinet accommodation on Booking.com.

Where to Eat

Hello You Restaurant and Wine Bar - The best daytime option in town. A relaxed café-restaurant on the stoep of a heritage building, serving good coffee, locally sourced lamb dishes, and a rotating menu of Karoo-influenced food. Main courses from approximately R120–R180 (as of 2026).

De Camdeboo Restaurant - The upmarket option, typically in a heritage setting with a wine list focused on Karoo and Cape producers. Mains from approximately R180–R280. Booking recommended for dinner.

Frontiers Karoo Restaurant - Casual Karoo cooking, strong on game dishes. The lamb pasta and venison pie are consistently recommended by guests. Mains from approximately R110–R160.

Coldstream Restaurant - Local bar and grill in a comfortable setting. Reliable for steaks and Karoo lamb. Mains from approximately R100–R150.

Getting There

By road from Cape Town: Take the N1 towards Paarl and Touws River, then the N12 through Matjiesfontein and Beaufort West, and finally the N9 south to Graaff-Reinet. Total approximately 7–8 hours (690 km). This is one of South Africa’s classic Karoo road trips. See our driving in South Africa guide for road conditions.

By road from Port Elizabeth: Take the N9 north for approximately 250 km (around 3 hours). This is a straight, well-maintained national road through sheep country and small dorps.

By road from Oudtshoorn: Take the R62 east to Willowmore, then north on the R339 to Graaff-Reinet. Approximately 250 km, around 3 hours. This route passes through the Little Karoo and is excellent scenically. See our Oudtshoorn guide for a full account of what to see along the way.

Self-drive is the only practical option - there is no scheduled bus or air service to Graaff-Reinet. Car hire from Port Elizabeth or Cape Town airports is the most flexible arrangement.

When to Go

Spring (August–October) and autumn (March–May) offer the best conditions. Summers are hot - January temperatures regularly exceed 35°C and can reach 40°C, making outdoor activities uncomfortable from midday. Winters are cold at night (temperatures can drop below 0°C) but clear and dry, with ideal hiking and driving conditions during the day. The Valley of Desolation is accessible year-round; the dusty roads dry quickly after rain.

The Graaff-Reinet Arts Festival (typically held in October) brings music, film, and food events to the town for one weekend and attracts visitors from Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. Check local listings for exact dates.